Instructions

1. Fish collars are the best-kept secret of the fish world. The collar is located just past the gills. It is boney, with lots of fat and collagen. But nestled amidst it all are the most succulent parts of the fish, on par with fish cheeks, but much meatier. Think about the two tender little oysters on the bottom side of a chicken and you will get the idea.
2. Every fish has a collar (often cut into two pieces), which means that they are inexpensive and abundant (if you know who to ask). Most stores that sell salmon, toss the collars along with the heads and the tails, or keep them in the back for savvy customers. If you ask the fish monger, they will usually oblige—and respect.
3. Once you have the collars in hand, season them with salt and pepper and drizzle them lightly with olive oil. Then grill them for 5 minutes per side over medium-high heat (as you would a hamburger). One collar per person is enough as an appetizer. Two will make a meal along with some veggies.
4. Grilled collars are fabulous unadorned, but if you want to guild the lily—or the collar as the case may be—brush it with some miso butter. To make miso butter, simply combine three parts room temperature butter and one part miso paste.